2 months in, I feel fully settled in Accra and am comfortable travelling solo across the busy city. Yesterday I started to realise there are a lot of things I now consider normal that were culture shocks at the start:
Street goats and chickens
Whereas I’d pay upwards of £5/£10 to visit a farm in England to see animals, goats and chickens just roam free on the streets of Accra. Often travelling in packs, the domestic animals are like cats – let out in the morning and returning to their owners at night.
Carrying small change
I’m so used to being overcharged at vendor stalls and on public transport that I keep a list of past trips and an abundance of small change in my purse. I’ve noticed traders give me a specific look when they’re about to push their luck, so I don’t hand over money until I know I’m paying Ghanaian prices and not white girl fees.
Malaria and mosquitoes in general
People catch malaria like the common cold and it’s easily treatable here. I’ve usually got at least a handful of bites on me at all times, I always carry mosquito spray, tuck myself into my net at night, and I’m now hyper-vigilant at smacking them off. Not quite the ninja reflexes of a local, but I’m getting there.
The hospital system
If you’re ill you visit the hospital. There are no GP surgeries so everything from a sprained ankle to a terminal illness goes through the same building. Once registered, you pay for everything upfront before you are treated; want to see the Doctor? Let reception know, visit the cash office and then get in line. There’s no ticket system though – you are told which door and then you sit on the closest seat to that door. Every time someone goes in, everyone shuffles up a seat, and if you’ve already queued but had to visit the lab for a blood test, you get a free pass to push to the front once your results are in.
Being a celebrity
Well kind of…people may not know my name but they know I’m an “Ubroni” (aka white person). It’s not considered a term of offense, just a fact, and I don’t think I’ve gone a day without at least one child shouting Ubroni at me for a wave. White people are a bit of a rarity here so when I was stopped in the supermarket by a group of teens for a photo yesterday I just obliged, shook their hands and agreed to be their friend when asked.
Ghanain pace conserves energy, stops you from getting too hot in the sun and if there is an alternative to walking people will always take it (even if it’s to avoid a 5 minute walk). I am used to walking like a Londoner; always in a rush even when I have nowhere to be, and whilst it used to be frustrating, I’m kind of used to being a little more chill now.
Why drink bottled water when it’s 5x cheaper from a sachet? You get used to the chemical taste of the treated water, it’s safe and after a few weeks I had mastered the art of biting the corner open and not spilling a whole bag on my crotch.
I rarely get up any later than 6am now even on the weekends. The host home tend to wake up at 4/5am and my counterpart is usually up and about before 6am so it’s futile trying to fight it.
Wearing flip-flops inside
Although the floors are swept and mopped regularly, the sand from outside gets everywhere. It means everyone wears slippers/cheap flip-flops inside and I still have to brush my feet off before I get into bed.
These are communal taxis that have a fixed cost and route split between 4 people. It’s basically sharing the cost of a taxi when you’re all going in the same direction, without needing to know the other people.